My Hudson Valley guide.
AKA: Come see me this weekend!
We’ll start with some very good news: Last week, I finished another new draft of the book I’ve been writing on and off since 2020. I couldn’t guess what number draft it is, exactly, but I can tell you it’s my third full draft since November 2023. It’s been hard and rewarding work. I couldn’t even begin to predict how many more years of work will go into said book, but at this very moment… I feel proud of myself! So we’re going with that.
Having said that, I can now confidently say that I generally do not recommend publishing a book and trying to finish one at the same time. But that’s what June was for me. I think I experienced the supercharged version of every possible emotion. But as of last week, the end was very much in sight when it came to this draft, so I really pushed myself to just finish the damn thing. In doing that, I inadvertently forgot to get you a Desk Tour on time. So guess what? This week you’re getting two posts, starting with today’s guide to the Hudson Valley. Stay tuned for a fun Desk Tour that’s going live on Friday.
Admittedly, today’s post is partially a selfish endeavor to try to tempt people to come see me at Kinderhook Books for my book event with
this weekend. Take a road trip! Make a day of it! Visit a quaint town and have a glass of wine with me in the bookstore’s wine garden (did I mention the bookstore has a wine garden?)! But even if you can’t make it to Kinderhook Books this weekend, save this guide for sometime in the future when you’re planning a little road trip or mini getaway. Plus, they have another amazing event soon: Laura van den Berg discusses her new novel, State of Paradise, with Marie-Helene Bertino, author of Beautyland.
First thing’s first: I should clarify that this is my guide to my part of the Hudson Valley. You could drive for hours and hours up and down both sides of the Hudson River and stop in what feels like a million adorable towns. These are just (some of) the ones in my immediate vicinity. This is where I eat, shop, read, and hang out regularly. It is not a definitive list. For the sake of making things a little fun, I’ve created a rough itinerary for you below, but (of course) feel free to take what interests you and leave the rest!
Getting here.
If you’re considering a day trip to this area, I’m going to assume that you are coming from a nearby major city — NYC or Philly, perhaps. Some insight on those trips, to help you plan: If you’re driving from NYC, my part of the Hudson Valley is about a 2-ish hour drive. Not bad! If you’re coming via train, it’s the same. Philly is more like 4 hours. When Jake and I were looking at houses up here, we did the Philly —> Hudson —> Philly drive many times. It’s a bit more of a commitment than the NYC trip, but it’s definitely doable if you leave early enough and especially if you choose to stop somewhere overnight (more on that toward the end!). Of course, Amtrak is always an option as well, but most of these places are a minimum 15-20 minute drive from the Hudson, NY train station, so plan accordingly!
Mid-morning: An easy nature walk, coffee + snacks, and some shopping.
If you’re looking for an in-depth Catskills hiking guide, prepare to be disappointed. Last time I did a somewhat difficult hike I lost all my toenails (plus, the Catskill Mountains are across the river from us). I am not your nature guru. However, I do like moving my body and being outside and a staring at beautiful things while pretending my life is a music video (just me?). So, if you’re looking for a way to be in nature and stretch your legs after a long drive, I highly recommend checking out Ooms Nature Conservancy for an easy, peaceful walk. Think more rolling hills, ponds, and general bucolic beauty than mountains. If it’s hot, you will definitely be sweating by the end, but it’s a very easy stroll. Other ideas that would be great for Ooms: Pack a blanket and some snacks for a pond-side picnic, queue up an audiobook you’ve been wanting to read, sit on a bench and enjoy the gorgeous views.
If you’re feeling a bit peckish or need a pick me up after Ooms, stop by Bartlett House for a jam donut and an iced coffee. You might be thinking: But Olivia, I don’t like jam donuts. What if I want something savory? No. This is a specific recommendation to which you must adhere. Do not go here if you do not get the jam donut. The jam is homemade. It is a perfect food. I am passionate about this. In the summer, this place can get a bit nuts after about 9 or 10 in the morning, so I find it’s best to get your donut, coffee, and then hit the road again. And save room for more food elsewhere, because there are a lot more stops to make. If you’re staying overnight or for the weekend, you can also stock up on some bread or baked goods here for cooking at home and then stop by the truly storybook-esque Kinderhook Farms (random, but I also highly recommend following their Instagram) to get some fresh eggs or grass-fed/pasture-raised meat. They also let visitors wander around and see the animals, plus I hear they have a very cute AirBnb.
Now that you’re fueled, you’re going to make the drive back into Hudson1. If it’s a weekend, Warren Street tends to feel a bit like a hipster-fueled Epcot to me, and I tend to avoid it, but it is very charming and has tons of little gems (also tons of places where you could accidentally spend $250 on a stained linen tablecloth from France, but I digress) so I think it’s worth checking out if you’ve never been. Warren Street is known for its antique stores, but generally speaking the prices are, in a word, horrifying. Or maybe you’re incredibly wealthy. If that’s you, definitely go to Warren Street and buy antiques. I am happy for you and not at all jealous. For everyone else, I would encourage you to stop at the Hudson ReStore on your way into Hudson. If you follow me on Instagram, you know my deep passionate love for this ReStore. It has basically furnished my entire home, including a room in which I just collect things that I have bought there and then told Jake will “definitely” go somewhere, someday. Plus, everyone is the nicest there. In terms of finds, it can be hit or miss (as with any good thrift store), but every now and then you’ll find a gem.
Afternoon: Hudson (or maybe just Mel The Baker).
If I am going into Hudson, there is a 99.9 percent chance it is because I am going to Mel the Baker. It’s a newer Hudson spot (and also James Beard award-nominated, I may add) and known for its pastries and bread. I’ve tried almost everything they sell at this point (it’s all good — especially the chocolate chip cookies), but it’s their sandwiches I truly live for. If you are anywhere near Hudson on a Friday or Saturday, I implore you to go there and get one. My favorite is the Italian hero sandwich (Fridays), but it might be tied with Smoked Salmon Focaccia, Ham Comte Cornichon, or Shrimp Salad Roll (Saturdays). They change their offerings regularly, but it’s all excellent. My suggestion? Walk up and down Warren Street until you’re hungry and then grab a sandwich from Mel2
Afterwards, you could grab a cold beverage and a new book at Spotty Dog (this is the first of three bookstores on this itinerary, so shop accordingly!), and stop in Nikki Chasin to check out some amazing clothes and accessories (usually out of my budget, but I love browsing). If you want a sit-down lunch, I suggest going to Via Cassia and sitting outside with a glass of cold wine (or a spritz, if that’s your thing!) and some amazing pasta (though the kale salad I had there is one of the best I’ve ever eaten in my life). I’ve only been here once, but it was excellent.
There are a ton of other fun spots in Hudson (Lil Deb’s, Union Street Brewing Co, Cafe Mutton, Return Brewing, Feast & Floret, The Maker, The Hereafter, etc.), but if you walk up and down Warren and/or do some light Googling… you’ll find them. You can kill many hours doing this. If the weather is bad, may I suggest you go in the Antique Warehouse and wander around for, say, four hours? (Warning: Real, life-size taxidermy giraffe — don’t say I didn’t warn you).
Now, if you’re not in the mood to do the Warren Street thing, or you’re looking for an alternative/are in town for multiple days, I highly suggest spending the afternoon doing a tour at Olana. The grounds are stunning, the views are gorgeous, and the house is incredible. If you’re like me and into decor or old stuff… see it. If you don’t want to pay for a tour, you can go there and park and explore the whole place (just not inside the house, which is definitely worth seeing, for the record!). After you’re done there, I would suggest stopping by the gorgeous space which is Lasting Joy. It’s a brewery, but they have NA options and wine and it’s just really, really gorgeous. Definitely a great place to kill some time with a good book.
Now let’s head back to my neck of the woods, shall we?3
Afternoon: An adorable bookstore, some cheese, a movie, and more.
We’ll be heading to my town of Kinderhook (technically speaking, my exact town hasn’t been part of Kinderhook since, like, 200 years ago, but it was once part of Kinderhook and Kinderhook is home to my local coffee shop, library, bookstore, bar, etc… so I claim it as my own) for the book event that you are definitely attending in a bit, but first we’re going to head back over toward where you were this morning and visit the cutest darn main street ever. Mostly, this is so you can visit Chatham Books, which is darling. But you should also stop in Bimi’s Cheese Shop and stock up on some snacks for your Airbnb or road trip home. Bimi’s also has a great restaurant next door and very vibe-y basement bar, which I recommend checking out if you have time to stop by or need a dinner spot.
Bonus: I’ve never actually been inside, but the Crandell Theater is also right on Main Street in Chatham (also, naturally, very cute) and doing an afternoon showing of Emma (starring Anya Taylor Joy) at 1 p.m. on Saturday, July 13 (as I said, you’re definitely coming to my book event which is also on the 13th in this scenario, so let’s just go with it). If you’re looking to escape the heat or just enjoy some Jane Austen and eat popcorn… go for it!
Afternoon: Exploring Kinderhook.
Welcome to Kinderhook: Adorable small town, birthplace of President Martin Van Buren, and where you’ll find me bopping around most days of the week. If you happen to be here on a Saturday morning, be sure to check out the farmer’s market. Otherwise, there are a lot of fun spots to check out. Need some wine? Stop in the wonderful Kinderhook Bottle Shop. Want to grab an afternoon pick-me-up? Hang out in Morningbird with a cappuccino. Need some fun gifts or delicious candy or cooking ingredients or artisan candles? OK Pantry it is! Want some books? (Of course you do). Stop in Kinderhook Books, obviously (tell them I sent you, please!). Want to step inside an incredible historic home and also shop for gorgeous handmade goods and books and beautiful things at the same time? Check out The Mercantile at the Vanderpoel House. After that, walk across the street and check out the truly stunning gallery The School4. It’s pretty incredible and there’s a really amazing exhibition going on right now
Also, may I just say the Kinderhook Library is also adorable? Worth mentioning that there is also a guided Kinderhook Walking Tour which I, admittedly, have not done but am sure is great, especially if you’re into old homes and history.
Evening: My book event, dinner, ice cream.
In any case, one thing you must in Kinderhook do is stop at Saisonnier to grab some drinks and snacks/sandwiches. I cannot name the amount of happy hour drinks + hummus plates I have consumed here. Grab some beer or wine, share some sandwiches or cheese/meat plates with your people (they’re all great), and enjoy. The walk from here to Kinderhook Books is roughly 2 minutes. Making note of this because, again, you are obviously going to my book event in this scenario.
At this point, you’re going to be excited to go to the book event of the season at Kinderhook Books5. You can do some book shopping, grab a glass of wine (wine! garden! at! the! bookstore!), then listen to a Q&A with Christene and I. I’ll sign books! I’ll chat! We can all hang out. I’m excited.
And afterwards, you can quite literally walk across the street to The Aviary for a gorgeous, delicious dinner. I’ll probably be there too enjoying an ice cold glass of white wine with their cold sesame noodles.
If you want something a little more casual for dinner, hop in the car and drive over to the Berry Farm to grab some ciders/wine/beer and some incredible food from Yummy Kitchen (I am partial to the bún thit nuong with tofu, though Jake is obsessed with the curry… you can’t really go wrong).
Finally, you’ll end the night at Samascotts for ice cream. They change their flavors of hard ice cream pretty regularly, but they’re all very good (if they have the cookie dough or brownie sundae flavors available… get them), and you can never go wrong with a classic soft swerve twist (sprinkles optional). The ice cream window closes at 9 p.m. (pretty much everything here closes early-ish, unless you’re in Hudson).
Where to stay.
Since I live here, I haven’t stayed at any hotels in the immediate vicinity. However, I have strolled through the lobby of the The Old Dutch Inn which is, literally, a 15 second journey from Kinderhook Books and is just lovely. I’ve heard nothing but good things.
My favorite hotel in the area that I have stayed in is Deer Mountain Inn, which is across the river (less than an hour from Kinderhook and less than a 40 min drive from Hudson). When I say the vibes are immaculate here… just trust me me. The restaurant here is also so good, and they allow pets. It’s an incredibly relaxing, impeccably designed place, and I love it. If you are interested in actual hiking, it might be worth it to stay somewhere like DMI so you can scope out some more serious trails. Plus, it’d be a great place to start if you want to visit any of the adorable Catskills towns over there (Woodstock, etc).
Disclaimer.
I am absolutely certain I forgot something important on this list, so don’t be surprised if you come back to this in the future and see new additions. There are just so many lovely spots around here (and, importantly, many beyond Warren Street!!!), and so many hardworking businesses to support, and I am determined to do my best! So stay tuned.
And whenever you end up visiting, I hope you love it here as much as I do.
PS: One last thing before I go… you can order my first novel NOW! I appreciate your consideration, time, and support immensely.
A portion of July’s subscriber proceeds will go toward the Center for Reproductive Rights, which is currently working to build, enforce, protect and defend legal protections for reproductive rights around the world (including in Florida, where I grew up, and there is currently a 6-week abortion ban).
This itinerary is a bit of a round-about route. If you want to streamline your drive, you could start in Hudson and add Ooms and Bartlett House trips in later (but if it’s hot outside, you’ll want to save the walk for as early as possible).
Warning: I went here last Friday at 1 and they were sold out of almost everything, though I was still able to get my beloved Italian hero and cookie. You’ve been warned!
(I live ~16 minutes from Hudson, lol).
Random small town gossip bonus: At one point last year there was an extremely pervasive town rumor that Taylor Swift bought the house across the street from The School (she did not).
Please know I am mostly joking. You are absolutely under no pressure to come to this.
The town rumor about Taylor made me lol. When I was in high school, my small town had a very pervasive rumor that Brad Pitt and Jennifer Aniston had bought a home there. (They did not.)
Unfortunately won’t be making it up this weekend but hoping to convince some friends to do a Hudson valley trip in October! Will be hanging on to this for recs!